Lash Serum Comparison: Which Serum Suits Your Client?
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Comparing lash serums comes down to three types of formula: prostaglandin analogues, peptides and conditioning oils; each has a different effect, a different risk profile and a different place in your salon advice;
Clients see lash serums everywhere online and increasingly ask their brow professional which one to choose. A good answer goes beyond "this one works fastest". It takes into account sensitive eyes, lash extensions, pregnancy and the changing EU rules on certain active ingredients. This guide compares the three serum types side by side, so you can give every client advice you can stand behind.
Want to go deeper into the difference between hormone-free and prostaglandin serums? Read Hormone-free lash serum vs prostaglandin: what's the difference?
The three types of lash serum
1. Prostaglandin analogues
Prostaglandin analogues were originally developed for eye drops against glaucoma. A side effect turned out to be longer lashes, which is why similar substances ended up in cosmetic serums. They extend the growth phase of the lash hair and usually give the most visible effect.
That effect comes at a price. Known side effects include irritation, redness, itching, darkening of the skin around the eye and, in rare cases, a change in iris colour. In February 2026 the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) concluded that several prostaglandin analogues are not safe for use in lash and brow cosmetics. The European Commission is preparing a ban; the date it will take effect is not yet known.
Example in our range: Aphro Celina Original. Only recommend it to clients without sensitive eyes who knowingly accept the side effects.
2. Peptide serums (hormone-free)
Peptide serums contain no hormones or prostaglandins. Peptides, panthenol and hyaluronic acid condition the lashes and brows for a fuller, healthier-looking result. They do not intervene in the growth cycle, so the effect builds up gradually and is milder than with a prostaglandin serum.
The advantages are mainly in comfort and suitability: a gentle formula that is also suitable for sensitive eyes and can be used with lash extensions and after a lash lift. With daily use, most clients assess the result after 8 to 12 weeks.
Example in our range: the Gentle Lash & Brow Serum without Hormones. This is the serum we recommend as the standard choice for most clients.
3. Conditioning oils
Serums based on oils such as castor oil mainly care for the existing hairs: they add shine and suppleness. They have no lengthening effect. Oils can feel greasy and are less suitable with lash extensions, because oil can weaken the adhesive.
Comparison at a glance
| Prostaglandin analogues | Peptides (hormone-free) | Conditioning oils | |
|---|---|---|---|
| How it works | Extends the growth phase | Conditions lashes and brows | Cares for and adds shine |
| Expected result | Most visible effect | Fuller, healthier look; assess after 8–12 weeks | Shine and suppleness only |
| Sensitive eyes | Less suitable | Suitable | Usually suitable |
| Lash extensions / lash lift | Ask the client to check with her lash stylist | Suitable | Less suitable |
| Possible side effects | Irritation, redness, skin darkening, rarely iris colour change | Rare | Greasy feeling |
| EU status | SCCS: not safe in lash cosmetics (2026); ban in preparation | No restrictions | No restrictions |
| Best fit | Clients who consciously accept the risks | Most clients, standard advice | Pure care |
Which serum for which client?
- Sensitive eyes, contact lenses or irritation-prone skin: a hormone-free peptide serum.
- Lash extensions or a recent lash lift: a hormone-free peptide serum with a lightweight, water-based formula.
- Sparse or overplucked brows: a serum that is suitable for brows as well as lashes. Read more in Does the Aphro Celina lash serum also work on eyebrows?
- Client wants the strongest possible effect: explain the side effects and the EU status of prostaglandin analogues, and record her choice in the client file.
- Healthy lashes, only care wanted: a peptide serum or a conditioning oil.
When to advise against a lash serum
- During pregnancy or breastfeeding: no prostaglandin serum; for other serums, the client should consult her GP or midwife first.
- For children, and during chemotherapy or other medical treatment: only after consulting a doctor.
- Prostaglandin serums: not with eye conditions or when the client uses eye drops.
- Always: remove contact lenses before applying, and stop immediately in case of redness, itching or swelling. If symptoms persist, the client should see her GP.
How to apply: once a day, preferably in the evening, one thin stroke along the upper lash line on clean, dry skin. For brows: apply sparingly to the brow hairs. More product does not give a better result, but does increase the chance of irritation.
Lash serum as retail in your salon
A lash serum fits naturally alongside your brow treatments: clients use it at home between appointments, and you remain their point of contact. Present a serum as a cosmetic care product and avoid promises about growth or fixed results within a few weeks. Read how to do that in How to position a lash serum as retail without medical claims.
Record in the client file which serum the client uses and when she started, and take a photo at the start and after 12 weeks. That gives you an honest before-and-after for your advice, without having to make promises.
Frequently asked questions
When will my client see results?
That depends on the type of serum. With a hormone-free peptide serum, most clients assess the result after 8 to 12 weeks of daily use. Prostaglandin serums usually show an effect sooner, but with a higher risk of side effects.
Can a lash serum be used with lash extensions?
A lightweight, water-based peptide serum can be used with lash extensions and after a lash lift. Oil-based serums are less suitable, because oil can weaken the adhesive.
Is a lash serum safe during pregnancy?
Advise against prostaglandin serums during pregnancy and breastfeeding. For other serums, the client should consult her GP or midwife first.
Can a lash serum change eye colour?
This is a known, rare side effect of prostaglandin analogues. Peptide serums and oils do not have this effect.
What happens when the client stops?
The lashes gradually return to their natural state as the hairs renew. Serums only have an effect with continued daily use.
Are prostaglandin serums still allowed?
At the moment they are not yet restricted in the EU. In February 2026, however, the SCCS concluded that several prostaglandin analogues are not safe in lash and brow cosmetics, and the European Commission is preparing a ban. The date is not yet known.
Can the serum also be used on the brows?
Yes. Both serums in our range are suitable for lashes and brows. Apply sparingly to the brow hairs once a day.
Choose the right serum for your clients
View the lash serums from Marie-José, with the hormone-free serum as the standard for daily care of lashes and brows.
View lash serums