What eyebrow shape suits me? The complete guide

Your eyebrows frame your whole face. Get the shape right and everything looks more balanced, more awake and effortlessly put-together — get it wrong and even flawless make-up feels a little off. So it's no surprise this is one of the questions we hear most: what eyebrow shape actually suits me?

As a rule, your natural brow shape already suits your face best. But when brows are sparse, very light, or over-plucked, you'll want to enhance or rebuild them — and that's where knowing your ideal shape makes all the difference. There are two proven ways to find it: the pencil-mapping method (enhance your natural shape) and face-shape matching (design the most flattering shape for your features).

Method 1 — Map your brow with a pencil

The pencil trick tells you exactly where your brows should begin, where the arch should sit and where they should end. It's the most common brow-mapping method because it works on every face and takes seconds.

You'll need:

• An eyebrow pencil or mapping tool to map and draw your ideal shape.
• The White Stick — normally your primer to make eyebrow powder waterproof, here perfect for marking your mapping points.

A — Where your eyebrows should begin
Hold the pencil upright against the side of your nose. Look at where it crosses the brow line: the edge of the pencil closest to your nose marks where your brow should start. Mark that point with the White Stick.

B — The perfect arch
Angle the pencil from the side of your nostril across the outer edge of your iris (the coloured part of your eye). Where it crosses your brow is your ideal arch point. Mark it with the White Stick.

C — Where your eyebrows should end
Angle the pencil from the side of your nostril to the outer corner of your eye. Where it meets the brow line is where the tail should finish. Mark the edge closest to your eye. If hairs grow past this point, tidy them with tweezers.

Method 2 — Match your brow to your face shape

Your face shape helps decide which brow shape is most flattering — and, just as usefully, which shape to avoid. To find yours, pull your hair back so your full outline shows and look for the closest match below. Your face won't match one shape exactly, but it will come close. Not sure which one you are? There's a quick measuring test in the FAQ below.

Long

• Forehead, cheekbones and jawline are about the same width
• Face is notably longer than it is wide

Best brow: flat and horizontal — it makes a long face look more oval and balanced.

Avoid: a high, angled arch with a short tail; it only exaggerates the length.

Hair tip: volume at the sides and soft bangs help the face appear shorter.

Oval

• Forehead slightly wider than the chin
• Prominent cheekbones, tapering to a narrow oval

Best brow: a soft-angled brow — or almost any shape that enhances your features.

Avoid: an overly high arch, which can give a permanently surprised look.

Hair tip: you can wear most styles — just don't hide that symmetry behind heavy bangs.

Heart

• Similar to oval
• The chin tapers to a point

Best brow: a rounded brow to soften the pointed chin.

Avoid: a flat, horizontal brow — it throws the balance of the face off.

Hair tip: fullness around the chin (a chin-length bob) rounds out the face.

Round

• Face is almost as wide as it is long
• Widest at the cheeks

Best brow: angled with a high arch and a short tail — it lengthens and slims the face.

Avoid: a round brow, which echoes the face and makes it look rounder.

Hair tip: add height at the crown and keep volume off the sides.

Diamond

• Widest at the cheekbones and temples
• Tapers to a pointed chin; a rarer shape

Best brow: an angled or curved brow with a peak (a rounded brow also softens the angles).

Avoid: a flat brow, which makes this face look unflatteringly short.

Hair tip: add fullness at the bottom — a round bob with bangs is ideal.

Square

• Forehead, cheekbones and jawline about equal in width
• Strong, square jaw is the defining feature

Best brow: angled or curved with a sharp peak — it draws attention away from the jaw and balances the face.

Avoid: a delicate, rounded shape; it won't balance a strong jaw.

Hair tip: soft layers and wisps around the face are the most flattering.

Match your face shape to a stencil

The kit's six stencils come in three thicknesses — Bold, Natural and Sleek — each in a curved or a straight version. Pick the shape for your face (straight for a long face, curved for the rest), then the thickness for the look you want: bold for defined, natural for everyday, sleek for subtle. It's all in the Brow Powder Kit.

From shape to finished brow

Once you've mapped the shape, bring it to life. Sketch the outline, then fill with eyebrow powder in thin layers using an angled brush — start light and build up. For staying power (and on skin with little or no hair), lock it in with the White Stick primer first, so the colour grips and stays smudge- and water-resistant all day.

Frequently asked questions about eyebrow shape

How do I know where my eyebrow should start?+

Hold a pencil upright against the side of your nose. Where it crosses the brow line — on the edge closest to your nose — is where your brow should begin.

How do I measure my face shape?+

Use a ruler for a quick, accurate test. A. Measure the length of your face from crown to chin. B. Divide the answer by 3. C. Measure the distance from the bottom of your nose to the bottom of your chin. If B is greater than C, your face is long or square. If B is less than C, your face is round or diamond. If B is equal to C, your face is oval or heart-shaped. Then match it to the shapes above for your best brow.

Which eyebrow shape suits a round face?+

An angled brow with a high arch and a short tail. It lengthens and slims the face. Avoid a rounded brow, which makes a round face look rounder.

What products do I need to fill in my brows?+

An eyebrow pencil to map and outline, eyebrow powder and an angled brush to fill, and — for lasting hold, especially on sparse or bare zones — the White Stick primer underneath.

Ready to find your perfect brow?

Map your shape, match it to your face, and fill it in with confidence. Explore Marie-José brow make-up to shape, define and make it last.

Shop brow make-up →

Discover the White Stick primer, our eyebrow powder and brow mapping essentials at marie-jose.com.